Sunday, February 19, 2017

BurdaStyle 08/2016, 110 and 102 - Pleated Trousers and Ruffled Blouse



The Russian Burda website is like the most beautiful open secret for Burdastyle enthusiasts.  Obviously, anyone can visit and see the multitude of pattern reviews done by very skilled "needlewomen," but it's the sort of site you must be introduced to by someone else already in the know.  After you're introduced, it becomes one of the most useful sites for finding reviews and inspiration--not to mention previews of upcoming issues!

All of this is to preface my favorite term for those who sew:  Needlewomen!  Nearly every review on that site begins with (translated automatically by Chrome) "Hello fellow needlewomen" or some variation thereof.  The term has a certain Balkan charm, and I've decided to adopt it.

I mean, really, what kind of options do we needlewomen have when it comes to terms for ourselves?  Sewer is obvious, but contains whiffs of the gutter.  Sewist is a little too hipster-y.  Seamstress, a bit too industrial revolution.  Nah.  Needlewoman is what I call myself, for a needlewoman I am.

Sadly, needleman doesn't have quite the same ring to it.  Tailor is appealingly brisk, but it refers to a specific type of garment making.  I would suggest "man of the cloth," but people might get the wrong impression.

The first month of this new year was full of family business and busy days and nights--no time to sew.  February, despite having to catch up on work from last semester and keep up with the current one, has given me a little more time.  These pants are one of the first projects I completed this year.  I think I like them.  The red/white striped ruffle-front blouse was completed last year, but I like them together as an outfit.

The trousers are Burdastyle 08/2016 110, and the blouse is 08/2016 102.

For the pleated trousers I used a golden beige linen/wool blend fabric.  Lightweight, which drapes well, and very comfortable.  It doesn't crease as badly as pure linen, but it's easier to care for than pure wool--win/win!  I modified the pattern slightly by shortening the wide waistband and adding a tab in the front, with a contrasting button.  I think it's a subtle little detail, but cute.


The ruffled-front shirt went together well, but it's a bit boxy for my taste, so I think I will usually tie it up or wear it tucked in.  The front is dart-fitted, but the back has a pleat and no shaping.  The armholes were a little snug, and not as scooped in as I think they ought to be, but that's easily fixed!  I really like this blouse, with the tiny band instead of a collar, the bias ruffles, and the fun options for customization with buttons and stripes.

The fabric is a lightweight, crisp cotton shirting with no stretch.




The second shirt is similar, with a boxy fit and a band instead of a collar, but it was made years ago from a Simplicity pattern.  I'm not sure which one!  It's the oldest thing I made which I still wear.  The busy print helps obscure the bad topstitching, and the french seams have made the airy cotton lawn stand up to dozens of washings.  Definitely a favorite in the wardrobe!

Thank you for reading!  I encourage any feedback, constructive criticism, whatnot.  Always looking to advance my knowledge and skills.