Saturday, December 20, 2014

Simplicity 1419 - The Russian Wodka Dress

I used to really like the Lisette line of patterns for Simplicity.  The first collection was like an adorable exercise in coordination--the colors, the fabric swatches on the envelopes, the little names they all were given.  But then I actually made some (the Passport dress and the Portfolio tunic, if you must know).  The early ones almost uniformly lacked bust shaping and ended up being kind of unflattering for someone like me.  Simplicity 1419 changed all of that!

For this dress, I added an FBA and some extra waist darts (bringing me to 4 in the front) for the proper fit, then changed the skirt to the formula I like best.  It has two inverted pleats at the front, which usually are placed directly underneath the waist dart, and either small pleats or gathers at the back.  On this particular dress I used pleats.  Made this way, the skirt has a nice flat front which I prefer to one with fullness all the way around.

Checking on cookies.  You mean to say that you don't do Industrial Christmas Baking dressed like this??
 The fabric is Russian vodka, circus, ballet, and flag print which is definitely a little unusual for me!  I tend to stick to solids or small florals, and leave the crazy prints to my sister, but I had my eye on this fabric for years and finally decided to pull the trigger a couple of months ago.  I'm so glad I did because it's got a hand like buttah and a drape like silk--all while being easy-care rayon.


It looks like there's a line of stitching above the waistline seam, but I think that's a crease in the fabric from where I had the apron tied a bit snugly earlier.  


I cut a size 14, but did a 3-inch FBA and took out additional width in the waist with an extra dart.  I think the back ended up being a size 12.  This pattern definitely runs a little bit big!


I swear, this kitchen has the worst lighting ever.  But the best ovens!



From the side you can see the sleeve I modified.  The pattern's original cap sleeves were not my cup of tea.  At all.  Originally, I thought that a puffed half-sleeve with darts at the bottom, like a mini leg o' mutton would be nice instead, and give me a bit of coverage in the winter.  Nope.  Frumpsville.  In a fit of frustration, I cut two inches off the bottom, hemmed it, and then gathered the bottom 3-ish inches at the outside and sewed a little self-bow on top.  It's twee, but it suits the silly print!

I welcome any suggestions, critiques, advice-s, etc!  Thanks!

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